ARMOUR - an interfaith art collaboration
Victoria Burgher, Unaiza Karim & Jacqueline Nicholls
CORSET - Victoria Burgher
milk bottle tops, cheese grater, fabric & assorted amulets
DRESS - Jacqueline Nicholls
synamay, silver wire & ribbon
AMULET SHIRT - shirt by Victoria Burgher, embroidery by Jacqueline Nicholls & prayers by Unaiza Karim
light-weight cotton, embroidery thread, black ink on Indian paper with shell gold
The Armour project originated in a discussion between the 3 artists about the different roles that women play within religious cultures and general society. Exploring the need for women not to feel vulnerable, to be protected, it took inspiration from armoury collections in London. In the Wallace Collection, there was the following quote from James Mann who was campaigning in 1937 to save antique Spanish armour from destruction during the Spanish Civil War. "Human life can be replaced by a comparatively simple process, but the great works of art which have come down to us from the past are irreplaceable."
The dismissal of individual human life in this statement was shocking, particularly as it was antithetical to religious moral senses and outlook on life. It devalued the maternal role in childbirth and nurturing. The project developed so it was not just looking at ways in which women arm themselves, but also the role of protection of human life.
There is an Islamic tradition of amulet shirts worn under armour when going into battle. They were often decorated with holy sayings that are associated with protection. Amulet shirts were usually made by the warriors’ mothers, a physical manifestation of the anxiety and desire for their children’s safety.
This amulet shirt was made by Victoria, and embroidered by Jacqueline using Unazia’s designs. (The red and black threads being amulets in Jewish and Eastern cultures respectively) The prayers and supplications written by Unazia are taken from some of the 99 names of God that relate to protection, verses from the Koran, and traditional sayings. At the centre of the shirt is the Ayat-Al-Kursi (The Verse of The Throne), a protection prayer often recited by mothers to their children. The motif is inspired by Maghreb illuminations, a Shajira (a small tree) ascending to God.
Victoria selected metals that are found within the domestic setting (milk bottle tops, cheese grater) to create an armoured corset. The layers of metal provide an impenetrable surface to protect the female form. The corset is fringed by amulets and bottled feminist sayings.
Jacqueline’s dress was inspired by Biblical women who are confronted with violence and use their sexuality as armour and as a weapon. Abigail when challenging David and his violent mob seduces him and defuses the situation. (There is a Rabbinic tradition that David was aroused with great strength by the light of her thigh) The dress includes knitted silver wire, echoing chain-mail. The sleeves are wide enough to hide a dagger, or tent peg (Judith, Yael), perfect for the post-seduction beheading. These Biblical women may seem fragile and vulnerable, but from their position of powerlessness they use what they have to fight back and not be a victim.
As a collaborative team we got to know each other, were interested and respected each other’s cultures and artistic practices. There was an instant recognition that despite our diverse religious and cultural backgrounds there was understanding and common ground. We have shared experiences of being mothers, and being women living with patriarchal cultural traditions.
thanks the 3 Faiths Forum for this opportunity to work together and being a catalyst for beginning our joint creativity.
Victoria Burgher, Unaiza Karim, Jacqueline Nicholls
www.victoriaburgher.com
www.unaizakarim.co.uk
In 2012, Armour won an award for best interfaith art collaboration, from the Mica Gallery at an award dinner at the Saatchi Gallery.
Victoria Burgher, Unaiza Karim & Jacqueline Nicholls
CORSET - Victoria Burgher
milk bottle tops, cheese grater, fabric & assorted amulets
DRESS - Jacqueline Nicholls
synamay, silver wire & ribbon
AMULET SHIRT - shirt by Victoria Burgher, embroidery by Jacqueline Nicholls & prayers by Unaiza Karim
light-weight cotton, embroidery thread, black ink on Indian paper with shell gold
The Armour project originated in a discussion between the 3 artists about the different roles that women play within religious cultures and general society. Exploring the need for women not to feel vulnerable, to be protected, it took inspiration from armoury collections in London. In the Wallace Collection, there was the following quote from James Mann who was campaigning in 1937 to save antique Spanish armour from destruction during the Spanish Civil War. "Human life can be replaced by a comparatively simple process, but the great works of art which have come down to us from the past are irreplaceable."
The dismissal of individual human life in this statement was shocking, particularly as it was antithetical to religious moral senses and outlook on life. It devalued the maternal role in childbirth and nurturing. The project developed so it was not just looking at ways in which women arm themselves, but also the role of protection of human life.
There is an Islamic tradition of amulet shirts worn under armour when going into battle. They were often decorated with holy sayings that are associated with protection. Amulet shirts were usually made by the warriors’ mothers, a physical manifestation of the anxiety and desire for their children’s safety.
This amulet shirt was made by Victoria, and embroidered by Jacqueline using Unazia’s designs. (The red and black threads being amulets in Jewish and Eastern cultures respectively) The prayers and supplications written by Unazia are taken from some of the 99 names of God that relate to protection, verses from the Koran, and traditional sayings. At the centre of the shirt is the Ayat-Al-Kursi (The Verse of The Throne), a protection prayer often recited by mothers to their children. The motif is inspired by Maghreb illuminations, a Shajira (a small tree) ascending to God.
Victoria selected metals that are found within the domestic setting (milk bottle tops, cheese grater) to create an armoured corset. The layers of metal provide an impenetrable surface to protect the female form. The corset is fringed by amulets and bottled feminist sayings.
Jacqueline’s dress was inspired by Biblical women who are confronted with violence and use their sexuality as armour and as a weapon. Abigail when challenging David and his violent mob seduces him and defuses the situation. (There is a Rabbinic tradition that David was aroused with great strength by the light of her thigh) The dress includes knitted silver wire, echoing chain-mail. The sleeves are wide enough to hide a dagger, or tent peg (Judith, Yael), perfect for the post-seduction beheading. These Biblical women may seem fragile and vulnerable, but from their position of powerlessness they use what they have to fight back and not be a victim.
As a collaborative team we got to know each other, were interested and respected each other’s cultures and artistic practices. There was an instant recognition that despite our diverse religious and cultural backgrounds there was understanding and common ground. We have shared experiences of being mothers, and being women living with patriarchal cultural traditions.
thanks the 3 Faiths Forum for this opportunity to work together and being a catalyst for beginning our joint creativity.
Victoria Burgher, Unaiza Karim, Jacqueline Nicholls
www.victoriaburgher.com
www.unaizakarim.co.uk
In 2012, Armour won an award for best interfaith art collaboration, from the Mica Gallery at an award dinner at the Saatchi Gallery.
